If you're a child of the industrial complex, as most of us are, the title of this posting may cross some wires and short circuit some dogmas laid down by our forefathers. To their defense, our forefathers never rode a displacement hull. They may never have understood the concept of flow. Their world mainly consisted of the material, and the carnal to make their way through what they saw as bliss. They were a slave to the traditions and mentalities that have endured since the pit of the Kali Yuga. They pushed things aside to manifest their destiny. One could see how that resonates with those that behave in the same manner when they ride a wave. Work hard, push, and be rewarded. That's one way of doing it, but not the only way.
So, if you are struggling with a good bottom turn or cutting back or just finding that line you had that initially made you "come down" with "displacementia", you might just be trying too hard and falling into that old way of "working hard to get results". It's about downstream as opposed to upstream. How ridiculous would it be to paddle against a strong current? Yet many do. "Hull Heads" have it a little easier, one could say. Their boards aren't submissive compared to the "Formula One" shortboards of today. The shape determines the path. They fit inside a curl and attract water around their bulbous and bladed contours, immersing themselves into a communion of time and speed. To let the board "be", by directing only small corrections to compliment the wave, this seems to be the tao of the displacement hull. Do not disturb the flow. The qualities of the Liddle Displacement hull exemplify this concept. It transitions to different angles whilst minimizing the break of flow. Perhaps that is a main hook in the song for a lot of people that enjoy the design, to be embraced by something and a part of it. Like music. For some, this could be the meditation; a moment of surrender and detachment from the rigors of a fundamental world, where an individual can feel at one with the universe, whether he or she knows it or not. You can't beat water, join it.
This is the second Resin X/EPS board. The first was stringerless, 2 1/2" thickness. "Magic carpet" ride. The way the board conformed to the wave is like no other, due to the properties allowed by the Resin X's extreme ability to flex and rebound. (far beyond poly and epoxy resins). This allows a very smooth, friendly ride, also the volume decrease affords more responsiveness without the penalty of less floatation. The board is very light, however there is no problems sinking the rail and it rides just as low as a thicker, and heavier poly. The only thing is that it doesn't carry the momentum of a heavier board, obviously. A cedar stinger was added to give the board some extra snap and to keep it from over-flexing. The plan shape changed to a lengthened rail line. The board is essentially a 7'6" with the nose and tail squashed off. The bottom rocker remained the same from the last Resin X board.
Picked this 70s 7'4 liddle up off craigslist a few days ago drove the 1.5 hours last min to pick it up in newhall right away before it got snatched for such a good price number 1007 and was told by clark it was a mid late 70s stock board. stripped the old wax bondo'd up some dings threw a new fin in it and waahhlaaa took it out today....timeless
It started with a True Ames L flex regular base in hopes it would get some bite and projection out of the turns. It was easy to overpower the fin's flexible tip so the board would "chirp" back if it was pushed too hard. A "chirp" is when the fin suddenly grabs and projects whilst you're gettin' yer drift on. The fin was placed with the trailing edge of the base 12.5" inches from the tail. Sometimes whilst in trim, it was hard to disengage and drop down to get more speed to make a section. When it was pushed up and inch and a half, the board loosened up and worked top to bottom with ease. The past two sessions, it ran a 9" Gl Flex Volan fin from Fibre Glas Fin Co. (Larry Allison). First, with the fin's trailing edge at 12.5" from tail like the TA fin. Major improvement in smoothness during turns and adjustments. It still hung up in trim so fwd an inch and a half it cleaned up. Fin placement is so critical on these boards and each board and pilot are different. Start the fin in the middle and work it out these days.
Below is some footage of said board being ridden in some high tide waves at 1st point. The conditions were good but the backwash made for some interesting rides. Waves were shoulder/chest high.