An oil tanker and a Simmons board ...
From Christopher
1 week ago
From Glenn
Nice interview with Nat Young regarding his new book, Church Of The Open Sky, along with some transition stories as well.
"George is the only genius we’ve ever had in the evolution of surfing. We’ve had a lot of really talented, smart people that have contributed a lot, but for me, George was the genius. There’s so many aspects to what George is thinking. From cameras, to boards, to fish, he’s out there."
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Some recent footage of McTavish to go with it...
Malibu: Tummy Tutorial From Proneman
..."I've been using the GG Stage 6 Hatchet fin.....either a 7 1/4" or in this case the 9".
I think the 8" is probably the best overall fin for the board and that is what I normally used on the other 10' 4" Simmons, which is over on Oahu."
Roger
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Some thoughts on this clip from PG...
At first glance the wave and the ride seem like "nothing," but they're a textbook example of why we love hull surfing. Lying down on a long hull visually exaggerates what we feel riding standing up.
You can see clearly see the tail drift out as he rides, and the belly and rail grab hold of the curve/texture of the wall and pull the board up the face. The entire ride is an extended "drift" in the pocket. With minimal rider input, the board rises and falls up and down the face, slotting itself in the ideal position, moment to moment.
Roger paddled out at 4:45 AM, and there were people surfing. Most of them left as the sun was about to rise, but he stayed in the lineup until the lifeguards arrived.
Some thoughts on this clip from PG...
At first glance the wave and the ride seem like "nothing," but they're a textbook example of why we love hull surfing. Lying down on a long hull visually exaggerates what we feel riding standing up.
You can see clearly see the tail drift out as he rides, and the belly and rail grab hold of the curve/texture of the wall and pull the board up the face. The entire ride is an extended "drift" in the pocket. With minimal rider input, the board rises and falls up and down the face, slotting itself in the ideal position, moment to moment.
Roger paddled out at 4:45 AM, and there were people surfing. Most of them left as the sun was about to rise, but he stayed in the lineup until the lifeguards arrived.
The wave in the videos was ridden at about 6:15 AM, April 8. There was just a touch of sunrise, and the moon was full...that combined with the open aperture of the camera combine to make it look lighter than it was.
VW Vanagon Partial Update, From Proneman
Proneman
Malibu: April 2, 2020
According to KP, they were handing out $1000 fines for surfing Malibu. They must have been pretty tough, because only a handful of people were out over the course of the afternoon, and there was plenty of surf.
One SUPer was out alone for awile, and picked off a set wave...
A few moments later, he ended up near the pier, and made a run for it as the Lifeguards closed in...
People on the sidewalk took notice of the action. The bust itself generated more social distancing issues than that guy surfing...
After it was over, sets rolled into Malibu with no one out. Probably empty as it's been since the 50's...
One SUPer was out alone for awile, and picked off a set wave...
A few moments later, he ended up near the pier, and made a run for it as the Lifeguards closed in...
People on the sidewalk took notice of the action. The bust itself generated more social distancing issues than that guy surfing...
After it was over, sets rolled into Malibu with no one out. Probably empty as it's been since the 50's...
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