I did not know how the Santa Anas would be blowing at Rincon or if they would even be in play there......
Arrived in the dark and felt them blowing up the trail into my face. Sat on the beach waiting for some light but was pretty sure the waves would be ribbed and marginal with that wind.....Sets were overhead but wind seemed like it would persist so I moved on......
I headed south and looked at 5 or 6 spots but they were either more than I wanted or wrong wind. Malibu wind was the same direction as Rincon wind and waves were tiny. Topanga was good but inconsistent and crowded.
As I headed home, I thought I would keep an eye on the wind and possibly surf in the afternoon.
Around midday I noticed the wind at Malibu was diminished and I figured it would get immediately crowded. The crowd was not bad as it glassed off and I made my move....
I got a few at 1st point around 2 pm and then paddled up to 2nd where I lucked into 3 or 4 good ones. My persistence paid off and went home with a smile on my mug.
Hope you are getting a few up your way!!
Alexander Headland Long Board Club..Sun Shine Coast..Maroochydore region..Hayden Kenny boards.
Some guys that i used to know from coming over to PNG surf camp, and used to do Business with me when i had Fox Westsuits ..send these pics through in the last week.They are a solid bunch of guys and well established club.😎