Surfed the V bottom today at c street 2-3' , pretty clean conditions, with the wilderness 9.25' up.
went pretty well except it felt almost a little too far back, I was
definitely standing and turning farther back. I have to spend some more
time on it.
Halfway through the session I switched to the 10' velzy fin at 10" up (bottom pic)
It went pretty well too but maybe a tad less drive than the wilderness.
Next time I will try the wilderness at around 9 5/8" up.
All in all the board goes super fast, it takes off like a rocket and rides a little bit like an oversized stubby.
big roll/vee makes it a little more difficult to ride, one has to be
careful as not too overturn it but makes more than up for it with an
exciting ride. I think secretly the boards with the most hull end up
being my favorite boards...
Just wanted to share a board Brian Himlan -- aka longshipdesign -- just
finished up for me.
was to take a classic stubby template and pull it out to 9'1". About
4.5" of rocker in the nose, a little over 1.5" in the tail drawn out
very slowly from the apex. So far very pleased with the results. Speed
is king with this board for sure - get into the pocket, set it and
One of the obvious reasons (at least to hull riders) round rails can generate so much speed relates to their natural placement on the wave face. The lateral drag of the rail pulls the board up the face, into the part of the wave where more water is moving.
Two shots of the same rider illustrate this point. Round rails up top, down rails at the bottom.