Nice interview with Nat Young regarding his new book, Church Of The Open Sky, along with some transition stories as well.
"George is the only genius we’ve ever had in the evolution of surfing.
We’ve had a lot of really talented, smart people that have contributed a
lot, but for me, George was the genius. There’s so many aspects to what
George is thinking. From cameras, to boards, to fish, he’s out there."
I had an
8" inch one some time ago, but lost it and have not replaced
yet.......when it is small I like the 7 1/4" and it flies with that
fin.....Mostly I feel the 9" is too big but it does handle the
whitewater well. The difference between the 7 1/4" and the 8" is
quite a lot when you see them side by side....much more area on the 8".
I think the 8" is probably the best overall fin for
the board and that is what I normally used on the other 10' 4" Simmons, which
is over on Oahu."
Some thoughts on this clip from PG...
At first glance the wave and the ride seem like "nothing," but they're a textbook example of why we love hull surfing. Lying down on a long hull visually exaggerates what we feel riding standing up.
You can see clearly see the tail drift out as he rides, and the belly and rail grab hold of the curve/texture of the wall and pull the board up the face. The entire ride is an extended "drift" in the pocket. With minimal rider input, the board rises and falls up and down the face, slotting itself in the ideal position, moment to moment.
Roger paddled out at 4:45 AM, and there were people surfing. Most of
them left as the sun was about to rise, but he stayed
in the lineup until the lifeguards arrived.
The wave in the videos was ridden at about 6:15 AM, April 8. There was just a touch of sunrise, and the moon was full...that combined with the open aperture of the camera combine to make it look lighter than it was.