The Less You Do, The More You Get.

Matt Miller, Super Smooth


   If you're a child of the industrial complex, as most of us are, the title of this posting may cross some wires and short circuit some dogmas laid down by our forefathers.  To their defense, our forefathers never rode a displacement hull.  They may never have understood the concept of flow.  Their world mainly consisted of the material, and the carnal to make their way through what they saw as bliss.  They were a slave to the traditions and mentalities that have endured since the pit of the Kali Yuga.  They pushed things aside to manifest their destiny.  One could see how that resonates with those that behave in the same manner when they ride a wave.  Work hard, push, and be rewarded.  That's one way of doing it, but not the only way.
   So, if you are struggling with a good bottom turn or cutting back or just finding that line you had that initially made you "come down" with "displacementia", you might just be trying too hard and falling into that old way of "working hard to get results".   It's about downstream as opposed to upstream.  How ridiculous would it be to paddle against a strong current?  Yet many do.  "Hull Heads" have it a little easier, one could say.  Their boards aren't submissive compared to the "Formula One" shortboards of today.  The shape determines the path.  They fit inside a curl and attract water around their bulbous and bladed contours, immersing themselves into a communion of time and speed.  To let the board "be", by directing only small corrections to compliment the wave, this seems to be the tao of the displacement hull.  Do not disturb the flow.  The qualities of the Liddle Displacement hull exemplify this concept.  It transitions to different angles whilst minimizing the break of flow.  Perhaps that is a main hook in the song for a lot of people that enjoy the design, to be embraced by something and a part of it.  Like music.  For some, this could be the meditation;  a moment of surrender and detachment from the rigors of a fundamental world, where an individual can feel at one with the universe, whether he or she knows it or not.  You can't beat water, join it. 
Be water, my friend! 

7 comments:

KP's Round UP said...

Yeah, what he said.

peter said...

oh but you can BE WATER and shred too my friend , it's so fun to go fast and then turn real fast.
SO FUN!

Vyusher La Kali said...

I'll never argue with that. Just reflecting upon the essence of riding these boards. This is Dispacementia!

Brendon Masters said...

great read

rotate90 said...

to release the conditioned reflex to pump the board,
yet accelerate beyond imagination and in spite of effort.
I'd never seen the trim line before, like footlights marked with invisible ink--legible only to the third eye
no longer setting up turns like a boxer telegraphing blows. the cutback finally happened to me one day--the roll of the belly tracing the even horizon of the pocket like the hand of a spirit writer as surfing became astral projection.

--a grateful, remote lurker. Keep writing

hulldriver said...

There is no hull like a Liddle hull. I have had 68 surfboards of various sizes and shapes in my lifetime and only a few stand out, and those are my Liddles. My 7'6" smoothie is as much a part of my life as anything short of my family. Greg Liddle is not only a genius but he is a deeply thinking and feeling individual. It has been my great pleasure to have him as my number one shaper since 1974. A wise man once said "a Liddle goes a long way" yup, nothing like a Liddle, nothing!

Henry Hester said...

We think the same way about out 4GF mats. The less you do...