Dirt, 1976

I was set up with my camera at Malibu, snapping a few pics after a lengthy go out on a nice south swell. Steve Krajewski turned up with bun-huggers and the original "Jaws" model -- 7'3'' x 22.5" x 2.75'' --  and started riding set waves from the top of 3rd Point into 1st. No one else was even coming close to connecting the whole point. Every bottom turn jumped him into the next gear, speed-wise. Just stunning.

BTW, this was a long hull at that time.

Hard to believe that was over 40 years ago!


tuskedbeast said...

Wonderful photo and memory.
I have a one-time-viewing memory of Jepson's Cosmic Children with a single amazing Malibu ride at warp speed from a guy on a hull- ring any bells?

Paul Gross said...

Epic shot!

The board that Steve was riding in Cosmic Children was, in fact, the very first "Dirt Machine." Over the decades, there were dozens of them based on that template.

There was another brief sequence of Steve in CC. It's the double image sequence, shot in south wind morning Malibu.

tuskedbeast said...

I just found youtube footage with the double image and two other hull rides, and also found it excerpted nicely here a few years back.

The other Steve ride I'm talking about and I think you too was longer and more epic :) and I haven't found it anywhere on line.

Paul Gross said...

After some searching, I haven't found that ride either. It's later on in Cosmic Children, and that footage seems to have been taken down.

Bonus question....who named Jepsen's first film "Cosmic Children?"

Jim said...