Contemporary Lynchian Moment ...


It's hard to imagine a transition era hull handling this kind of wave, but this shot of Craig Anderson in Fiji echoes the aesthetic that made the late 60's so engaging...the rider trimming over the center of his board, and a long, clean track.

More Anderson...



Another '68 Puerto Rico Vid ...




The footage from Evolution tends to dominate our memories of this event, but the US television coverage on ABC was more thorough. It shows some neat hull surfing here and there.

The waves were atrocious for the boards they were riding -- or vice versa -- and a lot of credit has to be given to the riders as they soldier on in the face of some shapeless, warbly junk.

This is Part One of the coverage. Not sure if Part Two is online...I can't find it.

Even though Nat Young and Wayne Lynch were riding first-gen, pulled-in roundtails, their boards still had V in the back half. You can see the V of Nat's board parting the water in the middle shot below...

 
 


From Spence ...

 
A brand new 6 foot Spencer Kellogg hull...right out of the Richie West/George Greenough era Wilderness mold (c 1970.)

From The Net ....


A couple of on-line stirrings regarding modern surfboard design, found on the World Wide Web...

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Roger Kelly forwarded this treatise on the shortcomings of contemporary big wave design.

It's a long read -- and pretty technical -- but that allows author Donn Ito gets to the heart of the flaws of flat bottom surfboards in big surf.

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Glenn Sakamoto also turned up this short piece from the Surfer Magazine site on the fading grandeur of thrusters in everyday surfing.

 It's interesting that it took so long -- over 3 decades -- for the media to catch up!

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From Roger ...

Friday at Rincon....knee to shoulder high waves with low tide, warm water and air. Moderate crowd with lots of kids due to holiday.

Nice glide in take off....



Just after take off...

 


Last photo in series..... still long way to go...ended up past the pit



Greenough Flex Takes To The Sky ...


It's been 51 years since George Greenough built his first flexible kneeboard in a backyard engineering environment. That's a full half century if you're keeping score at  home.

 
 
 
 
 


Now it appears that the super high tech aerospace industry is starting to catch up...