Glenn Sakamoto from Liquid Salt forwarded this link to some early hull riding during the Malibu Invitational contest in the summer of 1969. The footage is from Hal Jepsen's classic, The Cosmic Children.
The riders are Steve Krajewski, Andy Davis, and Dru Harrison.
Steve is riding his original "Dirt Machine," a 7' x 22'' roundtail Liddle hull. Andy is on a longer, more drawn out Liddle based on Nat Young's 1968 Keyo roundtail, and Harrison is on a Petrillo foiled outline hull, a shape Dru championed during the transition era.
4 comments:
1. That collision is teeth-grindingly painful.
2. The rider in the beavertail is on fire. Love that trim up the face into the coverup.
3. God, will I ever have a chance to live at a lefthand pointbreak again?
4. No. Might as well watch the Lopez Nose-Tweak.
The beavertailed rider on the smaller wave is Steve K. A classic ride, with Steve at the height of his surfing prowess. World class stuff, for sure.
The collision is Steve as well.
You can clearly see the hulls struggling on the two rides on larger, fuller-faced waves. (Steve and Andy.) Smaller, tighter waves are the ticket for hulls.
And no, no left handed point waves for you, TB.
:)
Later in Cosmic Children there is footage of Dru Harrison riding Honolua Bay on a gunnier shape displacement hull, blazing down the line. You have to have the right board for the wave. Thank goodness we came up with the idea of quivers to feed the addiction
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