Malibu, 1948

From ???

Someone just sent me this. I have no idea who it is or where it is.  Anyone with this information is encouraged to contact Displacementia...

Proneman !!!

Roger "Proneman" Kelly turns 70 today! The died-in-the-wool hull rider boasts a great portfolio here on Surfmatters. Well worth another look...

Happy birthday, Rog!

:)

Another Jock Sutherland/Transition Era Board

 Probably a Brewer shape...with virtually no rocker!

Hull Rider Sells Over A Billion Books...

Agatha Christie, the famous British crime novelist who created Hercule Poirot and Miss Jane Marple, learned to surf in 1924, when riding waves was the privilege of only a few.

A collection of previously unpublished letters and photos has revealed that Christie set off on a year-long round-the-world trip, as part of a trade mission of the British Empire Expedition.

The master of suspenseful plots visited Hawaii, Canada, America, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa and took photos with her portable camera. Agatha Christie described her adventures in diaries and letters sent to her mother.

"It was occasionally painful as you took a nosedive down into the sand, but on the whole it was an easy sport and great fun," the novelist wrote. When she finally took off on her first stand-up ride, she was delighted.

"Oh, it was heaven! Nothing like it. Nothing like that rushing through the water at what seemed to you a speed of about two hundred miles an hour; all the way in from the far distant raft, until you arrived, gently slowing down, on the beach, and foundered among the soft flowing waves."

"The Grand Tour," a new book published by Harper Collins, delivers some of the original letters, postcards, newspaper cuttings and memorabilia collected by Agatha on her trip.

The British crime fiction writer sold over a billion copies of her 80 novels, short story collections and plays. Agatha Christie, a true pioneer, not only in novels but also in surfing.

From Hal

 

 

 

Ahoy Paul,

Here's a few (not so great) shots of the "Go Faster" exhibit we opened last week at SHACC. 

Details here... 

The exhibit will be up until the middle of July.

Hope all is well with you and yours!


HF

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Note Nat's Weber shown in the below posting...

pg

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Jocko 1969

 

How many contest surfers shape their own boards today? This is a heat in the 1969 Duke Invitational. Left to right: The recently departed Mike Doyle (self shaped board,) Ryan Dotson (self shaped board,) Felipe Pomar (Downing shape), Nat Young (Harold Iggy shape), Ben Aipa (self shaped board), Jock Sutherland (Brewer shape.)

 

Rocker? We don't need no stinkin' rocker...

 In late 1969, Jock Sutherland rode a minigun shaped by Dick Brewer. (That's an educated guess...not 100% sure Brewer shaped it.) While no photographs are available that show the details of the board, it was a hull, very narrow, area forward, and almost no rocker. Very advanced in terms of its low volume, and how he rode it...side-slipping, and often time switching stance and surfing as a regular-foot.

Artist Of The Month

A Couple More Transition Era GIFs