It’s Great To Suck At Something
By
Over
the past 15 years, surfing has become a kind of obsession for me. I
surf eight months a year. I travel to surf destinations for family
vacations and seek (forgiving) waves in the Atlantic and the Pacific
Oceans. I have spent thousands of dollars on boards of all sizes and
shapes.
And
yet — I suck at it. In the sport of (Hawaiian) kings, I’m a jester. In
surfing parlance, a “kook.” I fall and flail. I get hit on the head by
my own board. I run out of breath when held down by a four-foot wave. I
wimp out when the waves get overhead and I paddle back to shore. When I
do catch a wave, I’m rarely graceful. On those rare occasions when I
manage a decent drop, turn and trim, I usually blow it by celebrating
with a fist pump or a hoot.
Once,
I actually cried tears of joy over what any observer would have thought
a so-so performance on a so-so wave. Yes, I was moved to tears by
mediocrity.
So why continue? Why pursue something I’ll never be good at?
Because it’s great to suck at something.
When
people hear that I surf, I get a knowing nod of awesomeness from the
terra firma-bound. I know what they’re picturing: me on a thruster,
carving up and down a wave face until I casually kick out the back to
paddle out to the line up for another. The truth is that most surfers
don’t come close to what we see in highlight videos. But pretty’s not
the point. The point is the patience and perseverance it requires to get
back on the board and try again. After a surf instructor pushed me into
my first wave, it took me five years to catch one on my own.
When
I do catch a wave and feel the glide, I’ll hold onto that feeling for
hours, days or even weeks. I’m hooked on the pursuit of those moments,
however elusive they may be. But it’s not the momentary high that has
sustained me. In the process of trying to attain a few moments of bliss,
I experience something else: patience and humility, definitely, but
also freedom. Freedom to pursue the futile. And the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory.
My
friend Andy Martin is a Cambridge don of French literature. He has
surfed the world over. But about his status as a surfer, he tells me, “I
am called a surfer only at Cambridge.” In his mind, he sucks, but he’s
O.K. with that. That being O.K. is the humility that comes only with
sucking and persevering.
The
notion of sucking at something flies in the face of the overhyped
notion of perfectionism. The lie of perfectionism goes something like
this: “If I fail, it’s only because I seek perfection.” Or “I can never
finish anything because I’m a perfectionist.” Since the perfectionist
will settle for nothing less, she is left with nothing.
Self-knowledge
here is key. No one ever tells you how much you suck at something.
Unless you have a mean boss, an abusive parent or a malicious friend,
most people are happy to help us maintain the delusion that our efforts
are not in vain. No, we cannot count on people around us to let us know
how much we suck. It is far more acceptable to compliment than to
criticize. So the onus is on us as individuals to admit to ourselves how
much we suck at something. And then do it anyway.
By
taking off the pressure of having to excel at or master an activity, we
allow ourselves to live in the moment. You might think this sounds
simple enough, but living in the present is also something most of us
suck at.
Think
about how focused you become when you’re presented with something
totally new to accomplish. Now, what happens when that task is no longer
new but still taps into intense focus because we haven’t yet mastered
it? You’re a novice, an amateur, a kook. You suck at it. Some might
think your persistence moronic. I like to think of it as meditative and
full of promise. In the words of the Zen teacher Shunryu Suzuki, “In the
beginner’s mind there are many possibilities; in the expert’s mind,
there are few.” When I surf, I live in the possibility.
Or, as the great father of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, wisely advised: “Be patient. Wave come. Wave always come.”
But, then what’s going to happen?
As my friend Michael Scott Moore
wrote in his book, “Sweetness and Blood,” “When a surfer takes off on a
wave, there are two possible results.” Fairly predictably for me, the
outcome is an epic fail. Yet, I remain hopeful that this time will be better than the last.
Maybe
sucking at something where the stakes are low can lead us to a better
place. Maybe it could be a kind of a medicine for the epidemic
cocksureness in our culture. Seeing ourselves repeatedly doing something
we suck at — no matter how trivial — might make us a bit more
sympathetic to how hard so many things really are: trying to navigate
health issues, listening to our neighbors, improving the economy or
mitigating relations with hostile nations.
By
exposing ourselves to the experience of trying and failing we might
develop more empathy. If we succeed in shifting from snap judgments to
patience, maybe we could be a little more helpful to one another — and a
whole lot more understanding.
If
we accept our failures and persevere nonetheless, we might provide a
respite from the imperative to succeed and instead find acceptance in
trying. Failing is O.K. Better still, isn’t it a relief?
There’ll always be another chance. And another after that, trust me. Be patient. Waves come. Waves always come.
1 comment:
55 years of surfing and at best I'm mediocre. It's a gift, because I'm always learning and it never gets old. The simplest clean cut-back is a joy for weeks! I've known talented "surf stars' that were invited to the Duke at 18 and quit surfing at 25, because there wasn't anything left to do. It isn't how it looks (despite our addiction to good photos) it's how it feels and what it does to you inside at your core of being. Thanks for a bit of inspiration!
Speedshaper
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