Proneman, Just Out Of The Water At Kirra


Been surfing mostly Snapper.....but benefited from good wind and tide today at Kirra today!!


9'4'' Jacobs

One of the gems in The Endless Summer -- indeed, one of the gems in all of surf movie-dom -- is the the 44 second clip of Dora in teensy, sloppy, crowded Malibu. He's riding a 9'4'' D-Fin Jacobs, with a clear layup and a wide balsa stringer.

The window of time captured (circa the summer of '62) is a big part of what makes this clip so engaging. Noseriding was around, but hadn't yet become a de rigueur componant of longboarding. Dora's Jacobs was a double-ender pig, better suited to turning and trimming than tip riding. There was nothing about the board that encouraged him to ride any further forward than he didn't. In effect, he was riding the wave, not his board...which became the mantra of the shortboard revolution a half dozen years later.

From Peter

Hi Paul,
This is a lino cut I did a few years ago. 
Called it “six eight by seventeen by twenty three by seventeen by three”. Used a graphite block on Japanese paper to get a “right-reading” impression. A bit like the shaping and glassing process. I guess it could be a hull. May be suitable for displacementia.

I have another similar print that has board graphics designed to “confuse flying saucers above and sharks below”

I hope you enjoy this...


Wilderness/Liddle Bottom Turn Comparison

Mike Cundith, Wilderness hull, top. Greg Liddle and Marty Peach, Liddle Hulls, bottom.