Fall Malibu


This morning. First feelers of the new swell showing...

South Bump Rincon

Greenough's comment: "It's like riding your bike over railroad ties!"

Handling Balance

Two proven Greenough fins...

On the right, Velo's massive 10" deep x 8.5" base x 5/8" thick fin. (Approximately 13.5 to 1 thickness-to-width aspect ratio.) 1966.

On the left, the edge board's narrow 9" deep x 5" base x 7/8" thick fin. (Approximately 5.5 to 1 thickness-to-width aspect ratio.) 1972.

As profoundly different as these designs are, they netted the same handling result in the water because they were used on completely different boards. The narrow, white fin isn't "more advanced," even though it came along 6 years later. It evolved to address the needs of Greenough's edge boards.

The point is...a good fin design doesn't become obsolete! What matters is the handling balance it generates on the specific board it's used on.

Kubrick Vs. Greenough: Smackdown !!!

From Open Culture...

"What happens when you cue up The Wizard of Oz (1939) and Pink Floyd's Dark Side of the Moon (1973), and play them together? You get something magical. Or, to be more precise, you get "Dark Side of the Rainbow," a mashup that first began circulating in 1995, back when the internet first went commercial. Watch "Dark Side of the Rainbow" (above) and you could believe that Floyd wrote Dark Side as a stealth Wizard of Oz soundtrack--though that's something the band firmly denies. And, we believe them.

But bury one rumor, and another takes its place. The Vimeo caption accompanying the other mashup above reads as follows:
It has long been rumoured that Pink Floyd set 'Echoes' to the final sequence of Stanley Kubrick's, '2001: A Space Odyssey'. Two years before producing their album 'Meddle', featuring the 23 minute piece 'Echoes', Pink Floyd worked on the 'More' French film soundtrack, where they worked with film synchronization equipment. From there the rumours blossomed, with Roger Waters being misquoted as saying the band were originally offered to do the soundtrack (they in fact turned down an offer to feature the 'Atom Heart Mother' suite in 'A Clockwork Orange'). Whether or not the rumours have any basis in fact, there is an undeniable beauty when watching the combination of Kubrick's intricate stop-motion universe, coupled with the psychedelic wonders of Pink Floyd.
This last thought is seconded by philosophy professor Joe Steiff, who, writing in the edited collection, Pink Floyd and Philosophy, adds this:
A lesser-known mashup is the syncing of "Echoes" (from Meddle) with the final twenty minutes of Stanley Kubrick's 1968 film 2001: A Space Odyssey (beginning with "Jupiter and Beyond the Infinite")... [T]he mashup is coherent and cohesive. The emotional tone of the music and the images work in near-harmony, resulting in a mashup that stands up to repeated viewings.... Both the movie and the music feed into and expand the sense of mystery and unknowability that each explores independently.
Watch "Echoes Odyssey" above and see for yourself."

Transition Era Bob White Designs

While painfully embryonic, these 5 shapes represented how adventurous the next-gen builders were in the late 60's.

Unfortunately, this poster scan is too small to discern the details of these boards...but they run the gamut from a low-to-high railed minigun (#1), to a double-ender with a fin box at each end allowing the rider to choose their rail line by swapping the fin (#2), to a longer, moderate outline, low-to-high railer (#3), to a full on pig shape with low-to-high rails (#4), to the most conventional shape, a mini-gun with high-to-low rails (#5).

This all came out of Bob White's Wave Riding Vehicle shop in Virginia Beach.

The current Wave Riding Vehicle version of history has all but erased White's name from the books. Not sure what's up with that. No Bob White, no Wave Riding Vehicles, IMO.