Piggiest Pig Ever Competition

No clues as to who this is, where it is, or when it is. Regardless, the board is a impressive piece of work. The shape and the graphics are both leading edge...or at least, original!

Regardless, it's probably second in Displacementia's ongoing "Piggiest Pig Ever" competition. The reigning champion continues to be Dale Velzy...

Variety Is The Spice Of Life

Keith Krunch, Hobie Alter Jr, Doug Browne, and Kevin O' Sullivan. 1968 Menehune contest, La Jolla Shores.

Keith, Hobie and Kevin are cracking it on full outlined stubbies, while Doug is totally prepped for the big stuff with a his pintail mini-gun!

A Couple Of New PG Boards

 A Spoon-ish 9'4'' for Mark Pestrella

 A 7'6'' all-rounder. $750. Contact Spencer Kellogg at profkrispy at yahoo dot com for details...

R.I.P. Tom Ortner (1949-2019)

 Just a regular guy...except he surfed a lot better!
Photo: Jon foster

 One of the classic transition era images. Photo: Jeff Divine

 No hull? No problem! Early low railer, buried nose to tail. Photo: Foster

Blacks backside. Photo: Foster

Immortalized at his home break, Windansea. Photo: Foster

Bill Fury and Mini Gun

This pic was in a Dive 'n Surf wetsuit ad in 1969. It featured Bill Fury at the Huntington Beach Pier...apparently getting out of the water after a surf on a brand new, waxless transition era mini gun!

Seriously, what makes this photo of some historical importance is the board. Not necessarily the radical outline or the pinched hull rails, however interesting. But rather, the blank it would have been shaped out of. The shortboard revolution had just taken over, and shops -- especially larger shops -- were sitting on an inventory of leftover longboard foam. The result was a brief generation of small, transition era boards that were shaped out of blanks that were totally inappropriate. Meaning, low, even rocker, nose to tail.  Not much more shapers could do but soldier on with what they had.

Before long, blanks specifically designed for shortboards emerged, with less tail lift and more nose lift. But it wasn't until the mid-70's era Brewer plugs that short, single fins really found their potential. With his rocker apex forward, and straight-but-soft tail lift, virtually any board shaped out of a Brewer blank was at the very least serviceable. Most were really good...

Great Hull

I found this in a batch of old photos notated as "Honolulu, 1950's."

Not sure how accurate that is...but look at the board! What a great shape, with a deep hull up front, soft-but-dropped rails in the back, and a minimalist fin. Nice s-deck and rocker scheme as well.

From ???

Someone just sent me this. I have no idea who it is or where it is.  Anyone with this information is encouraged to contact Displacementia...

Redux'd Crystal Voyager -- May 30th, UCSB

"David Elfick’s cult classic Crystal Voyager (1973) is a love letter to surf in the Santa Barbara Channel and a portrait of George Greenough, one of the sport’s great innovators. Written and narrated by Greenough and filmed at the height of surfing’s transition era, when riders and shapers were experimenting with new kinds of board design, the film chronicles the construction of a sailboat capable of reaching the uncrowded breaks of the Channel Islands. Along the way, Elfick and Greenough document surf from Rincon to The Ranch in the company of World Champion Nat Young and local shaper/surfer Richie West. The Pollock Theater is proud to present a newly restored digital version of this pioneering example of surf filmmaking. Crystal Voyager transcends the travelogue, as it sets out to capture the embodied experience and ecological intimacy that make the sport so captivating.

Director David Elfick and author Garth Murphy will join moderator Alexander Champlin (Film and Media Studies, UCSB) for a post-screening discussion."

Details here...

Proneman !!!

Roger "Proneman" Kelly turns 70 today! The died-in-the-wool hull rider boasts a great portfolio here on Surfmatters. Well worth another look...

Happy birthday, Rog!


Hull Rider Sells Over A Billion Books...

Agatha Christie, the famous British crime novelist who created Hercule Poirot and Miss Jane Marple, learned to surf in 1924, when riding waves was the privilege of only a few.

A collection of previously unpublished letters and photos has revealed that Christie set off on a year-long round-the-world trip, as part of a trade mission of the British Empire Expedition.

The master of suspenseful plots visited Hawaii, Canada, America, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa and took photos with her portable camera. Agatha Christie described her adventures in diaries and letters sent to her mother.

"It was occasionally painful as you took a nosedive down into the sand, but on the whole it was an easy sport and great fun," the novelist wrote. When she finally took off on her first stand-up ride, she was delighted.

"Oh, it was heaven! Nothing like it. Nothing like that rushing through the water at what seemed to you a speed of about two hundred miles an hour; all the way in from the far distant raft, until you arrived, gently slowing down, on the beach, and foundered among the soft flowing waves."

"The Grand Tour," a new book published by Harper Collins, delivers some of the original letters, postcards, newspaper cuttings and memorabilia collected by Agatha on her trip.

The British crime fiction writer sold over a billion copies of her 80 novels, short story collections and plays. Agatha Christie, a true pioneer, not only in novels but also in surfing.

From Hal


Ahoy Paul,

Here's a few (not so great) shots of the "Go Faster" exhibit we opened last week at SHACC. 

Details here... 

The exhibit will be up until the middle of July.

Hope all is well with you and yours!



Note Nat's Weber shown in the below posting...



Jocko 1969

How many contest surfers shape their own boards today? This is a heat in the 1969 Duke Invitational. Left to right: The recently departed Mike Doyle (self shaped board,) Ryan Dotson (self shaped board,) Felipe Pomar (Downing shape), Nat Young (Harold Iggy shape), Ben Aipa (self shaped board), Jock Sutherland (Brewer shape.)


Rocker? We don't need no stinkin' rocker...

 In late 1969, Jock Sutherland rode a minigun shaped by Dick Brewer. (That's an educated guess...not 100% sure Brewer shaped it.) While no photographs are available that show the details of the board, it was a hull, very narrow, area forward, and almost no rocker. Very advanced in terms of its low volume, and how he rode it...side-slipping, and often time switching stance and surfing as a regular-foot.


Nat Young and David Nuuhiwa...shot by Grannis and Brewer.