RIP Ken White


Vale Kiwi White
Stu Nettle

This week, ten emails worth of photos arrived in the Swellnet inbox. All of them documenting the wonderfully well-travelled life of Ken 'Kiwi' White, a fellow who, we'll clarify from the outset, was not a New Zealander.

Ken's nickname was born when, as a tot, he was playing Cowboys and Indians and Mum White painted stripes on his face using boot polish. The brand? Kiwi polish.

Born in Cheltenham, Adelaide, in 1945, Kiwi's life was taking a well-worn trajectory from school into his first job. He worked on the factory floor at Elders with faint hopes for elevation into the office, which was occupied by a certain class of character: conservative, well-mannered, short back and sides, on the rise.

The first surf films were coming out of the US and Kiwi suddenly saw a different future for himself. He politely informed his manager he didn't share his vision and took off.

Coming of age during Australia's first surf boom, Kiwi was a nimble natural-footer who tasted minor competitive success. In 1964, he surfed in the World Titles at Manly, the year Midget won announcing Australia as a force in world surfing. Yet it was Kiwi's appetite for adventure, and his Forrest Gump tendency to cross paths with fate, the '64 titles just one example, for which he's most well known.

Setting up base in Port Lincoln, Kiwi and mates explored up the Eyre Peninsula in their 30s-era wagon emblazoned 'West Coast Surf Chaser', copying the 'South Coast Surf Chaser' belonging to the guys back east across the gulfs. Other crews also had their 'chasers', The Surf Seekers, The Malibu Maniacs, Murphies Mob, Joie De Vivre, and later the Roaders.

Arguably, the West Coast crew had the richest pickings, but every crew put in the highway miles - that's the lot of being a South Australian surfer.

The difference with Kiwi, however, was that his travels went beyond the state - he surfed all around Australia - and they also took him beyond Australia to the best surf in the world, to Hawaii, California, Mexico, Indonesia, during an age that leaves a modern surfer green with envy, and he didn't even stop when the crowds came. Kiwi was travelling into his seventies and collected passport stamps from 101 different countries.

Back home at Port Lincoln he did seasonal work, first on the trawlers and later as a tuna spotter from a plane, and then leaving when the fish did.

Active into his seventies, Kiwi hit a stumbling block early last year. He began having trouble breathing, struggling with his surfing, and, unusual for Kiwi, he didn’t feel like eating or doing anything active.

So he had tests done, and the doctors initially gave him the all clear, but Kiwi insisted on further testing. Two weeks later, he was called back into the doctors for his results.

He had mesothelioma, an aggressive cancer caused by exposure to asbestos.

Kiwi claims it was an early surf trip to WA, telling the ABC:  "We were getting ten shillings, or one dollar, to fill up a big wool bag. The asbestos would come in and we'd rake it down and then we'd pick it up in our bare hands. No mask, no goggles, no protective gear at all, we had boardshorts, T-shirt, pair of thongs."

"I had a feeling this wasn't doing us any good. Both of us lasted ten days."

Despite the disease, Kiwi continued surfing and competing. Even winning the Over 75s division at Crescent Head last year with a bung lung and a grim diagnosis.

Kiwi is survived by his wife Robyn and daughter Sophie.


Click here for more pics. Thanks to Lou G for the link.

From Glenn



Nice interview with Nat Young regarding his new book, Church Of The Open Sky, along with some transition stories as well.

"George is the only genius we’ve ever had in the evolution of surfing. We’ve had a lot of really talented, smart people that have contributed a lot, but for me, George was the genius. There’s so many aspects to what George is thinking. From cameras, to boards, to fish, he’s out there."

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Some recent footage of McTavish to go with it...

 

Malibu: Tummy Tutorial From Proneman

"I'm riding the 10'4'' Simmons you made me back in '04...
 

..."I've been using the GG Stage 6 Hatchet fin.....either a 7 1/4" or in this case the 9". 
I had an 8" inch one some time ago,  but lost it and have not replaced yet.......when it is small I like the 7 1/4" and it flies with that fin.....Mostly I feel the 9" is too big but it does handle the whitewater well. The difference between the 7 1/4" and the 8" is quite a lot when you see them side by side....much more area on the 8".

I think the 8" is probably the best overall fin for the board and that is what I normally used on the other 10' 4" Simmons, which is over on Oahu."

Roger
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Some thoughts on this clip from PG...

At first glance the wave and the ride seem like "nothing," but they're a textbook example of why we love hull surfing. Lying down on a long hull visually exaggerates what we feel riding standing up.

You can see clearly see the tail drift out as he rides, and the belly and rail grab hold of the curve/texture of the wall and pull the board up the face. The entire ride is an extended "drift" in the pocket. With minimal rider input, the board rises and falls up and down the face, slotting itself in the ideal position, moment to moment.

Roger paddled out at 4:45 AM, and there were people surfing. Most of them left as the sun was about to rise, but he stayed in the lineup until the lifeguards arrived.


The wave in the videos was ridden at about 6:15 AM, April 8. There was just a touch of sunrise, and the moon was full...that combined with the open aperture of the camera combine to make it look lighter than it was.



VW Vanagon Partial Update, From Proneman

Parking restrictions forced him inland (across the street) Wednesday. Thursday both sides of highway restricted. Now???

Proneman