Early Island Mini-Gun Followup ...

Here are some North Shore hulls from the Fall of 1969...   


Joey Cabell

 Nat Young and Jock Sutherland

Lopez, Brewer, Reno

Tiger Espere

 
 
 
Nat on his Harold Iggy shaped Weber
.
Barry Kanaiaupuni pushing his thin, narrow miniguns to the limit

Bill Hamilton carving at Pupukea

 
Jock on a Brewer, switch stance at Sunset

Midget with a beautiful roundtail

Lopez on an S-Deck hull at Pipeline

 Doyle and Miller with Hansen hulls

Keith Paull in Peru, same time frame

What makes these images all the more interesting is that, like many leading-edge surfers of the day, BK, Midget, Lopez, Hammo and Keith Paull all shaped their own boards.

Jocko's Last Hull ...


The winter of 1969 was the last gasp of the first generation, displacement hull mini-gun on the North Shore.

As you can see in the top photo, the tails had already transitioned to dropped rails, with mild belly and turn-up remaining in the nose area. The red board Jock Sutherland was riding that year was a Brewer. (Charlie Quesnel is on the left. Not sure who's in the middle.)

Some footage of that board starts at the 7:25 mark...



The hulled mini-guns were still the norm during the fall of 1969...then Joey Cabell turned up at the Duke Invitational in December with a true, nose-to-tail lowrailer and won the contest (whatever that's worth). For better or worse, all hell broke loose in the surfboard design world in the following weeks, months, and years.


Cabell's "breakthrough" down railed gun was foreshadowed by the edge-boards of Bob Smith, Bunker Spreckels, et al. They're documented in Cher Pendarvis' piece in Surfer's Journal 26/1.

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A sample from Cher's article... 

Edge Boards and The Mysterious Mr. X




 

by Cher Pendarvis

Edge boards were ridden for just a few years, primarily on Oahu’s North Shore, in Kauai, and in San Diego at Sunset Cliffs, by a core group of outstanding surfers. The design was originally made for steep, powerful waves and was first ridden at Pipeline and Pipeline Rights in the fall of 1968. The original edge board crew contained surfers and designers spread across Hawaii and California, including “Mr. X,” Vinny Bryan, Rick and Todd Value, Dana Nicely, Eric Gross, Robbie Cushnie, and Bunker Spreckels.

The design was the first true shortboard. Through rail modifications and bottom contours, the craft’s proponents pioneered “on top of the water” surfboard design. They also made breakthroughs with the down rail concept that over the years has led to the progressive tucked under rails of today. Before edge boards, surfboard rails were relatively soft, even in the tail. Edge boards, on the other hand, had hard down rails and mostly flat bottoms. They were ridden with a variety of fins, including small keel fins, reverse keels, vertical fins, finger fins, and occasionally were surfed finless.

While the design sprang from many minds, “Mr. X” conceived the first edge boards. His desire to fly fast over the water drew him to explore “low drag” and in doing so he designed thick, down railed boards with flat planing surfaces and razor sharp edges from nose to tail. “He experimented with different rockers, templates, and bottoms,” says Ben Ferris, who was part of the Cliffs and Kauai edge board crews. “He had designed boats and understood water flow. The whole shortboard evolution was helped by the edge boards—these short, thick, down rail boards helped everything go shorter.”

“Of all of the people I’ve spoken to about edge boards,” confirms Nat Young, who was on the frontlines of the Shortboard Revolution, “Mr. X is known to be the father of the edge board. Yet no one has ever heard of him.”

A.K.A. Bob Smith, Mr. X was born Robert Imhoff in 1945. He grew up in Los Angeles and continues to use “Bob Smith” as his nom de guerre today, primarily because this was the name he went by during his early North Shore surfing adventures. His interest in wave riding began in 1960 in the South Bay. By the summer of 1961, he was embarking on quests as far south as Ensenada, and as far north as San Francisco, camping in his panel truck. He was always interested in how things worked. The very first board he made was an experimental finless with a deep concave than ran one quarter the length of the board from the tail. “I built stuff,” he says, “fixed most everything, and tried to improve things. I consider myself to primarily be an inventor and that’s how I approach any area. I ask, how can I understand this, and what can I do to improve it? Currently, I’ve been developing an exotic high-speed sailboat and have one patent on it so far. I always fixed my surfboards and started making my own in about 1965.”

In the summer of 1967, Smith decided to “drop out” and go to Hawaii. This was when he changed his name to Robert Smith, commenting, “How ya gonna drop out if you take it all with you?” He took his surfboard and suitcase to LAX and jumped on a one-way flight. Pipeline was high on his list of places to explore.

He made his first North Shore board in the winter of 1967. It was a very thin, 9’6″ semi-gun with down rails. Paddling it was challenging because it sat submerged in the water like a modern shortboard. “I broke it twice at Pipe,” he says, “but did get some good rides on it.”

Australian surfer and design pioneer Bob McTavish was at Pipe in 1967 with Dick Brewer and Mike Hynson and observed Mr. X flying on his 9’6″. “We saw the first down rail board, produced by an unknown guy,” recalled McTavish in Tracks magazine in 1980. “And do you know how the three leaders in design from California, Hawaii, and Australia at that time reacted? We laughed! Then the guy proceeded to paddle out at Pipeline on his knife-edged down railer and to our shock and amazement, it didn’t dig in. It just flew across the wall.”

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6'3'' Sea Of Joy Model ...

 
 
 
 
 


Happy new year!

I hope all is well with you. Thank you for contributing to displacementia, I'm so stoked about that!  

I've been away to handle my mother and father's estate. No water time for the past 6 months. I did manage to make a new board, thanks to Spence a 6'3" is patiently waiting for her maiden voyage. I named it "Sea of Joy". I dropped the rail line and lifted the tail rocker at the hip. 

The rails are pinched but rounded and run clear to the tail. There's a hard edge only on the arc of the tail. I really like that feature. I've run it on my last few boards and it seems to hold and sink rail better. I wanted something I could get a little more expressive with when the size is right. :)

Best,

Jonny


The Stradivarius ...

 
 

Tom Morey broke the mold when he named the 1969 Morey Pope pintail the "Stradivarius." 

After the McTavish Tracker model of 1968, Tom took a hold of the MP design reins and developed the Camel series of shortboards...one of which was christened the Stradivarius.

Since the ease of longboard paddling was still a recent memory, the idea behind the severely hump-decked Camel models was to pack as much volume into a small board as possible. The decks were so radically thick -- 4 inches in some cases -- they had to be shaped out of custom blanks. 

In a less extreme form, the concept of an S-deck proved to be valid, and builders utilized the concept for a number of years.


 Of course, Bob Simmons was using S-decks as far back as the late 40's...


But that's not why we're here today... 

At least one aspect of a recent explanation for the reverence of the Stradivarius violin involves flex:

"Dr. Tai’s team also found a property in the Stradivari violin samples but not the cellos: When they heated the wood shavings of the violins, they found an extra peak in oxidation, which implies a detachment between wood fibers. This detachment, possibly the result of centuries of vibrations from playing, may give the instruments greater expressiveness, Dr. Tai said, adding, “Top violinists often feel like these old violins vibrate more freely, which allows them to express a wider set of emotions.”

So, it would appear that the sound of the violins build by Stradivari may be, in part, due to the fact that the body flexes more than modern violins because they've been "broken in." 


(Another perspective of the same discussion involves what is known as the "halo effect." )

Anyway, this is kind of an off-topic, tangential post...but hey, if surfboard flex can be justified by the flex of a 17th century musical instrument, why the hell not?

:)

Contemporary Lynchian Moment ...


It's hard to imagine a transition era hull handling this kind of wave, but this shot of Craig Anderson in Fiji echoes the aesthetic that made the late 60's so engaging...the rider trimming over the center of his board, and a long, clean track.

More Anderson...



Another '68 Puerto Rico Vid ...




The footage from Evolution tends to dominate our memories of this event, but the US television coverage on ABC was more thorough. It shows some neat hull surfing here and there.

The waves were atrocious for the boards they were riding -- or vice versa -- and a lot of credit has to be given to the riders as they soldier on in the face of some shapeless, warbly junk.

This is Part One of the coverage. Not sure if Part Two is online...I can't find it.

Even though Nat Young and Wayne Lynch were riding first-gen, pulled-in roundtails, their boards still had V in the back half. You can see the V of Nat's board parting the water in the middle shot below...