Everyone in the comments section is losing their minds about this thruster bottom turn...as well they should. But damn, it's been nearly six decades since Greenough was doing it...
Early Wayne Lynch
In
the early 1960’s young kids didn’t really get into surfing that much.
Mainly due to the boards being so big, it was more for full grown men
and women alike.
My first board was a George Rice shaped Arthur
Milner & co solid Balsa which was around 9’6. Being so young and
very light with the boards being so big and heavy, nose riding is what
appealed to me the most.
Around a year after I started, my
surfing really began to progress. In 1963, my mentor and good friend
Geoff Tune, his sister Hazel and I travelled down to Phillip island to
compete in my first contest. I rode my first foam and fibreglass 9’2
Gill surfboard shaped by Max Gill.
In those days the surf
contests were run by the local surf lifesaving club, with the age limit
being from memory 15 or 16, when we arrived they initially refused to
let me enter due to the fact that I was 12. After a bit of back and
forth, they finally decided to let me enter the contest and to their
regret, I ended up winning.
Due to the age technicality, they
wouldn’t give me the trophy or first place. As a consolation they gave
me the “wave of the day” award, patted me on the head and sent me on my
way. My first experience of competitive surfing….
Wayne
More From TB
Malibu, circa 1971. One WAVE fin box (dark board), one early Fins Unlimited box (third from left), and the rest appear to be the classic black FU box. At least one Liddle.
Any idea who these guys are?